December 22, 2024
Why you should give up foundation at 40 – and other makeup rules for every age

Why you should give up foundation at 40 – and other makeup rules for every age

How do you feel about age-appropriate makeup? While it’s true that faces change with age, there are some things – the color, the innovative textures and the beautiful packaging – that don’t have to be off limits at any age. And as makeup artist Ruby Hammer puts it, nothing steals joy faster than an assignment. “I firmly believe that we shouldn’t take the joy out of makeup – it defeats the purpose,” she emphasizes. With that in mind, we asked five makeup artists to share buying recommendations that work best at every age.

At 20, it’s all about the skin

Good makeup always starts with what’s underneath, but in your 20s it’s the skin that really counts, says Zoë Taylor. “We can thank Hailey Bieber for moving us away from a very matte, heavily contoured look and towards a bouncy, clean-looking finish where you can’t separate skincare from makeup.” This, says Taylor , is the time to try mild, shiny formulas. “Make your skin more resilient. Then it’s about finding your identity, isn’t it, with a great eye or a bright blush.”

Hailey Bieber at Guest In ResidenceHailey Bieber at Guest In Residence

Hailey Bieber pioneered the move towards a more natural finish – Getty

On the other hand, Caroline Barnes (who had acne in her 20s) advocates for matte colors, adding that raised blemishes are accentuated by dewy, shiny foundations. One advantage is that young skin can cope with thicker coverage, which may look chalky later in life. She prefers powder foundation, which is carefully applied to textured areas with a fine brush. “You can’t make imperfections disappear, but you can hide the color and irritations.” Then go for a distracting glossy eye or a nice glossy lip, but avoid too much pink, as this can increase the redness of your skin.”

In your 30s… I’m tired. You?

“At 30, I noticed my skin was changing; I think that’s the case for everyone,” notes Caroline Barnes, adding that this is the decade of disrupted sleep and career ladders. “Perhaps you have young children or are facing big challenges at work, so you’re probably thinking about a light-reflecting concealer to brighten the eye area.” From there, it’s all about maintaining the freshness of your 20s and using colors that Make eyes and teeth look whiter and brighter.

Selena Gomez, dressed in CHANEL, attends the Academy Women's Luncheon presented by CHANELSelena Gomez, dressed in CHANEL, attends the Academy Women's Luncheon presented by CHANEL

Selena Gomez’s Use of Creamy Blush and a Soft Pink Lip Creates a Dewy Complexion – WireImage

Nicola Coughlan attends the Time100 Next Gala 2024Nicola Coughlan attends the Time100 Next Gala 2024

Bridgerton star Nicola Coughlan looks enviably fresh at 37 – WireImage

“Fresh pink lips, fresh pink cheeks or a bright pink, creamy blush are fantastic for this. Apply it directly on the cheekbones, just below the pupils, to get that round, youthful look,” says Barnes. “If you have a bit more money, you might also think it’s time to invest in some key pieces from brands like Westman Atelier and Hourglass, with hybrid qualities that will nourish your skin in the best possible way.”

In your 40s…bringing back the color

“If you’re going to drop something in your 40s, drop the foundation,” Taylor recommends. “Instead, opt for soft, skin-like concealers; You’ll need to refill during the day as these textures don’t last, but this is better than matte formulas that stay in fine lines.” For a soft finish elsewhere, bronzer is your new best friend. “After concealer, that’s all I wear,” Taylor says. “We lose so much pigment in our 40s; Bronzer brings it back without overloading your skin.” Important zones include the edge of the face and above your neck; Apply lightly with a large, fluffy brush and then apply to lips.

Beyoncé in "Mufasa: The Lion King" Premiere at the Dolby Theater on December 9, 2024 in Los AngelesBeyoncé in "Mufasa: The Lion King" Premiere at the Dolby Theater on December 9, 2024 in Los Angeles

Beyoncé’s soft-focus makeup is a good example for people in their 40s – Getty

“Find a shade that is closest to your own. Matte is a good texture in your 40s because it looks so chic—as long as you find a formula that doesn’t feel dry and doesn’t fray.” Taylor’s final tip for this decade is a lip liner. “So important to fill the gaps that have disappeared.”

In your 50s…let there be light

Think less, think smart, and think light-reflecting, says Lisa Eldridge. “With a subtle highlighter you want to give your face a radiant shine again. Nothing glittery, just a soft glow on the cheekbones and over the brows.” This is easier to achieve, explains Eldridge, when you’re sitting in front of a window with the sun shining from above. “Turn your head from side to side and you will see where the light hits. That’s where the glow goes.”

Do that first, she advises, and then build the rest of your makeup around that—a sheer skin tint; some precision to hide any sunspots; Bronzer on the jawline and forehead and a gentle cream blush. “This is my patchwork technique and it means you don’t apply too much makeup in any area. When you get older, there’s nothing worse.”

Viola Davis attends the HollyRod Foundation DesignCare Gala at Rolling Greens on September 28, 2024 in Los AngelesViola Davis attends the HollyRod Foundation DesignCare Gala at Rolling Greens on September 28, 2024 in Los Angeles

Viola Davis demonstrates radiant makeup look at gala event in Los Angeles – Getty

Another voice for midlife bronzing comes from Victoria Bond. “I love pale skin, but I tend to warm it up on anyone in their 50s.” She also introduces her middle-aged clients to some simple sculpting techniques. “Noses should stay as is, but you can give your jawline and cheekbones some shape back by drawing small vertical lines in a row along the edge of the bone and just below it, then blending them out with a brush.”

At 60+… fresher, hotter, cooler

“At this point, it really depends on your hair,” says Barnes. “If you’ve moved away from silver, it’s time to switch to cleaner colors. Nothing muddy, warm or golden; Think fresher, cooler, and hotter.” A sheer red blush is surprisingly flattering at any age, but especially now, and suits most skin tones (it’s the shade we naturally blush, after all). Pewter eyeshadows also work beautifully, says Barnes, and full-coverage concealer is a must to combat areas of uneven pigmentation. “When you correct minor sun damage, you immediately look more well-groomed.”

Catherine O'Hara attends the Los Angeles premiere of "Road Diary: Bruce Springsteen & The E Street Band"Catherine O'Hara attends the Los Angeles premiere of "Road Diary: Bruce Springsteen & The E Street Band"

Catherine O’Hara, 70, at the Los Angeles premiere of Road Diary: Bruce Springsteen & The E Street Band – Getty

For Ruby Hammer, the advantage of 60 is that you know what doesn’t suit you… but don’t let that make you overly cautious. “You’re not limited to neutrals, and that doesn’t mean you can’t use shimmer either. Technology has advanced so much that there are many options that are perfectly suitable. And if it doesn’t work, you can always wipe it off.” She likes foundations and concealers with moisturizing properties that are applied to the skin with a damp sponge, as well as nourishing mascaras and brow gels. “As lashes and brows become sparse with age, look for formulas that both nourish and add definition.”

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