Conservation experts have criticized London Fashion Week’s decision to ban exotic animal skins from its 2025 shows as “ridiculous”, warning that it was ill-informed and could jeopardize the protection of many species of snakes, crocodiles and reptiles.
Last month, the British Fashion Council’s deputy director of policy and engagement, David Leigh-Pemberton, told Parliament that next year’s fashion shows would ban the use of skins from alligators, snakes and other animals. In a statement, the council said the ban was part of a broader set of standards to promote sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
But scientific experts at the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), one of the world’s leading conservation organizations, have condemned the decision, saying exotic skins are often a far more sustainable choice than leather and synthetic materials. They say a ban would undermine economic incentives for communities to protect species – and warn claims the decision was made for sustainability reasons are “false”.
Luxury bags made from exotic skins can sell for tens of thousands of pounds, with some of the money going towards protecting the species they are made from.
Daniel Natusch, chair of the IUCN snake specialist group, questioned the basis of the decision. He pointed to examples of community groups in Papua New Guinea and along the Zambezi that had developed sustainable harvesting systems for exotic skins that benefited communities and wildlife at large.
“If you don’t like using animals to make a skin or whatever, that’s fine. But don’t tell the world it’s because you care about sustainability. The entire life cycle analysis was carried out. Apart from pineapple leather, we don’t know of a single raw material that is more sustainable than exotic skin, especially python leather. It’s ridiculous. If designers were serious and informed, we would all be wearing snakeskin underwear,” he said.
With this decision, London became the first of the “big four” fashion weeks – Paris, Milan, New York and London – to ban exotic skins. It was praised by animal rights activists who said their use was unnecessary and unethical. Pelz was previously banned from the event.
Dr. Dilys Roe, chair of the IUCN Sustainable Use and Livelihoods Section, said London Fashion Week organizers were wrong.
“There’s an assumption that because it’s wild, it’s unethical. If you care about the welfare of animals, how is it different from a pet? The snakes are not endangered. For some species, such as crocodiles, the fact that people can get money for collecting eggs creates an incentive to protect them,” she said.
“From a general sustainability perspective, it is a false assumption that faux fur and faux skin are somehow better. When you look at what’s in them, the associated carbon emissions and chemicals still stand out. I think there is a knee-jerk reaction.
“If you buy a Hermès crocodile leather handbag, you won’t buy it and throw it into landfill. The opposite of all this is fast fashion,” she said.
The British Fashion Council did not respond to a request for comment.